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St. Malo, France

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St. Malo is one those often talked about cities when you mention Brittany. Reasonably so, as it is essentially an island connected to the mainland by a harbor and some streets. The city is completely walled in with ramparts which are unique in that you can walk their entirety.  Upon arriving we immediately ascended them to walk the periphery.  An inviting natural pool that is refreshed by the ever changing ocean tides. In the distance, yet another island accessible by foot rewarding you with more stunning views.  It was a beautiful stroll on the ramparts, but my mind couldn't help but wander off to St. Malos' dark history. More than 80% of the city was destroyed in WWII by the Americans and British in a two week battle. 10,000 Germans were taken prisoner. It took 12 years to restore and rebuild this city. Farther back in time, beneath the ramparts were kennels for over 20 Mastiffs guard dogs. They were purposely not fed during the day so they ...

Dinan, France

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Dinan is the most intriguing Medieval town we have visited to date living in Europe. The town is filled with old colorful half timber houses, historic cobblestone streets, an original gate to the city and ramparts overlooking the charming Chance river.  From the ramparts and English gardens there were wonderful sweeping views of the port and its' several restaurants overlooking the water.  You could walk the ramparts and descend onto a little trail leading to the port, or take the winding cobblestones through the old city leading you past many restaurants, shops and art galleries.  These homes were built back in the late middle ages, 13th and 14th centuries using mainly wood. Wood was abundant and economical, and much easier to move before canals and railways were established. Another popular building material at the time was cob, a mixture of sand and straw. The impressive gate leading up to the city or downwa...

Civita di Bagnoregio

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Civita di Bagnoregio was a stop on our way from Amalfi coast to the Umbria region. It is located about 55 miles northeast of Rome. It sits on a volcanic tuff island rising up from the valley and was founded by the Etruscans 2500 years ago.  We paid our small entrance fee of 5€ and started our dramatic entrance up to the plateau.  The pedestrian path led to this town gate.  Once inside we were surprised at the number of cafes and restaurant that were available. Also, there are several apartments you can rent.  The town had one main avenue with intriguing off shoots that showcased its'  pristine appearance and blooming flowers.  The views of the valley were gorgeous.  There were so many terraces perched on the cliff sides with birds eye views.  I loved how the owners really spruced up their town with beautiful stones paths, wisteria and archways.  We...

Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

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It had been 11 years since we visited the Amalfi coast and we loved it so much we named our dog Amalfi. We were super excited to come back and stay on the eastern side and complete the whole coast.  This was our hotel, Villa San Michele in Ravello. As you can see, it sits on a side of a mountain and a lot steps were involved to get to and from the main road to your room. Pack lightly, this is common!! The hotel is situated below Ravello and has sweeping views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The property was very relaxing with the sound of waves crashing on the rocks. We were in awe of the panoramic views from the property, however disappointed in the rooms. They were small and outdated.  We had direct access to the water. It looked so clean and clear, however still too chilly for a dip.  Our car even had a great view!! The hotel offered free parking which was a huge bonus since parking on the Amalfi coast is a rare commodity and ve...

Ancient Matera, Italy

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This is Matera. A maze of unpainted stone, caves, and churches perched at the edge of a deep canyon. My first impression was that we had been transported out of Italy and into some ancient middle eastern city. That feeling is brought on by so much raw stonework with chisel marks still visible where they had been hand carved out of the nearby quarry. The uniformity of so much blank rock also has its own beauty which is best taken in from the far side of the gorge looking back towards Matera. From the distance the rock seems to blend into one jumbled puzzle with only the gaping openings of the caves looking back at you like vacant pockets in a bee hive. All of this is dominated by a single prominent church tower. This imagery has not been lost on filmmakers, who have used Matera as a stand-in for Jerusalem. Recent movies have been the remade Ben-Hur and The Passion of the Christ. Matera itself has leapt on board with this portrayal and frequent re-enactments of the cruci...

Ostuni, Italy

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Ostuni is a white washed walled city situated just inland on the Murgia plateau in the Puglia region. It is referred to as the La Cita Bianca, "The White City". It was resettled by the Greeks after it was destroyed in the Punic Wars.  The old city demands that the buildings are repainted every year to keep up its pristine white appearance. Passing through the gate, which leads into the old town, we came across another example of a helpful Italian. I was carrying a bag of dog waste and a car stopped right next to us and rolled down his window. We understood only one word he said, "cane", Italian for dog. Immediately I thought, are dogs not allowed in Ostuni?!?  Of course they were! He was just trying to point out where the garbage was to drop Bogi's waste, then off he sped in his Fiat Punto! The city was beautiful, with clean limestone pathways and newly planted flowers that popped against the white backdrop.  ...